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Harlequin Modern Muks Slippers
Designed by Maggie Pace
Skill Level: Intermediate
Yarn Size: #4
beg - beginning; BO - bind off; CC - contrasting color; cont - continue; ch - chain; CO - cast on; dpn(s) - double pointed needle(s); est - establish(ed); inc - increase(ing); k - knit; k2tog-knit two together; N1 (2,3) - Needle 1 (2,3); p - purl; pu - pick up; rem - remain(s)(ing); rep - repeat; RH - right hand; rnd(s) - round(s); RS - right side; sl - slip; st(s) - stitch(es); sc - single crochet; st st - stockinette stitch; tog - together; tr - treble crochet; WS - wrong side;
m1 - make 1 st by inserting left needle from front to back into strand running between needles, knit into the back of this strand
ssk - slip 2 sts 1 at a time knitwise, slip these 2 sts back to left needle and k2tog through back loops
SMALL (9") fits women’s sizes 6-7 1/2
MEDIUM (9 1/2") fits women’s sizes 8-8 1/2
LARGE (10") fits women’s sizes 9-10 or men’s 7-8
- Yarn A: 2 skeins #4 Worsted Weight Yarn 220 yds (201 meters)/3.5 oz (100 g)
- Yarns B, C, D, E, F and G: 1 oz (28 g) each #4 Worsted Weight Yarn 65 yds (59 m)
- Yarn H: 2 skeins #4 Worsted Weight Yarn 220 yds (201 meters)/3.5 oz (100 g)
- (Original made using Pick Up Sticks worsted weight 100% wool, Colors Cream (A), Sea Blue (B), Orange (C), Chocolate (D), Grass (E), Celery (F) and Gold (G) and Pick Up Sticks alpaca, Color Seafoam (H)
Double-Pointed Knitting Needles, set of 4 size 6 (4 mm)or size needed to obtain gauge
Circular Knitting Needle, size 6 (4 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge
1 pair Boye® Suede Slipper Soles in appropriate size
Split ring stitch markers
#22 tapestry needle Waste yarn
20 sts and 28 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette st.
Mukluk is knit in one piece beginning with the lining, which is a modified toe-up sock.
When the mukluk is complete, the lining is pushed into the exterior of the sock.
MUKLUK (Make 2)
- Holding 2 dpns parallel and leaving an 8" tail, wrap Yarn H around needles in a figure-8 patt until there are 10 wraps (sts) on each needle.
- Rnd 1 (RS) With a 3rd dpn, knit sts from 1 needle; with free dpn, knit sts from 2nd needle—20 sts. Distribute sts evenly over 3 dpns and pm to indicate beg of rnd.
- Rnds 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10: Knit.
- Rnd 3 (Inc rnd) *K1, m1, k8, m1, k1; rep from * once more—24 sts.
- Rnd 5 *K1, m1, k10, m1, k1; rep from * once more—28 sts.
- Rnd 7*K1, m1, k12, m1, k1; rep from * once more—32 sts.
- Rnd 9*K1, m1, k14, m1, k1; rep from * once more—36 sts.
- Rnd 11*K1, m1, k16, m1, k1; rep from * once more—40 sts.
- Work even is 2" less than length needed for foot.
- Lining Gusset
- Distribute stitches as follows: On first needle (N1), 10 sts; on second needle (N2), 20 sts; on third needle (N3), 10 sts.
- Next rnd (Inc rnd) On N1, knit to last st, m1, k1; on N2, k20; on N3; k1, m1, knit to end—42 sts.
- Knit 1 rnd.
- Rep these 2 rnds 5 more times—52 sts.
- Lining Heel Flap
- K4 sts from N1; place next 44 sts on waste yarn; slip rem 4 sts onto first needle—8 sts.
- Row 1 (WS) Sl 1 purlwise, p7.
- Row 2 Sl 1 purlwise, k7.
- Rep these 2 rows 7 more times, then rep Row 1 once more.
- Working down the heel flap with WS facing, pu and purl 8 sts, turn—16 sts.
- Knit to end; working down the other side of the heel flap, pu and k 8 sts—24 sts.
- Join and Turn Heel
- Place held sts evenly onto 2 dpns. Use free dpn to work heel flap sts.
- Row 1 (WS) Sl 1, p to last st on needle; p2tog (using last st on current dpn and first st on next dpn), turn.
- Row 2 Sl 1, k to last st on the needle; ssk (using last st on current dpn and first st on next dpn), turn.
- Rep Rows 1 and 2 until all heel sts are joined—52 sts. Beg working in rnds, k to center back heel and pm to indicate beg of rnd.
- Lining Leg and Cuff
- Knit 3 rnds even.
- Next Rnd Knit, inc 18 sts evenly around—70 sts.
- Work even in St st until leg measures 9" or desired length from bottom of heel.
- Interior Cuff Work k1, p1 rib for 10 rnds.
- Exterior Cuff
- Change to Yarn A and work k1, p1 rib for 10 rnds.
- Knit 3 rounds, inc 1 st on last rnd—71 sts.
- Exterior Leg
- Change to circular needles and beg working back and forth in rows; carry only Yarn A along the back. Work contrasting colors as intarsia, twisting at each color change, then dropping. The first and last st on the needle are selvedge sts and are not included in the repeat.
- Work chart as follows:
- Row 1 K1 (selvedge st), pm; following Row 1 of chart, knit next 23 sts using B as CC; knit next 23 sts using G as CC; knit next 23 sts using E as CC, pm, k1 (selvedge st).
- Row 2 Purl, following Row 2 of chart and using colors as established.
- Row 3-7 Keeping first and last sts in St st throughout, cont working chart with est colors. Break all contrasting colors at end of Row 7.
- Row 8-10 With A, work St st.
- Work Rows 1-10 of chart three more times, using the following contrasting color sequences:
- 2nd Pass F, D, C
- 3rd Pass E, B, G
- 4th Pass C, F, D
Beg again with color sequence B, G, E, cont in est color patt until exterior measures 1/2" less than lining when measured from top of cuff to heel, ending with a WS row.
Divide for Instep
Next row (RS) K1, remove marker, k22 sts of chart as est; sl these 23 heel sts to waste yarn; k1 (selvedge st) and place split ring marker in this st to mark ankle, pm on needle, work next 23 sts of chart as est, pm, k1 (selvedge st); sl rem 23 sts onto waste yarn for rem heel sts.
Working back and forth in St st and working chart between markers, work even in est chart patt, changing colors in est sequence, until foot is 2" shorter than desired length, ending with a WS row.
- Toe Shaping
- Row 1 K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—23 sts.
- Row 2 Purl.
- Rep Rows 1 & 2, maintaining colorwork patt, until 11 sts rem. Using Yarn A, bind off sts. Pm in center of bindoff row.
With A and circular needles, pu and knit 31 sts between the ankle and toe markers; pu and knit 31 sts from toe marker to other side of ankle; pu and knit 46 sts from waste yarn—108 sts. Pm to indicate beg of rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib for 3 rnds. Bind off loosely.
Weave in all ends except tail from lining. Use tail to seam toe closed. Steam block exterior to smooth colorwork. Use an invisible stitch for St st to seam the back of the boot. *With lining still outside, use an overcast stitch and matching yarn to sew mukluk to slipper sole. Work so that the ribbed instep is completely hidden under the leather ridge of the slipper sole. Take care to catch several sts of the ribbing with each overcast stitch so the boot is securely connected to the sole. Repeat from * once more to strengthen. Push lining inside, folding at the color break of the ribbing. Weave in remaining ends.
Slipper sock soles are hand washable with mild detergent. Consider the yarn you used to make your slipper socks before washing. After washing and rinsing, gently squeeze out excess water. Stuff with clean paper or cloth to retain shape. Allow to air dry.