1800's
Bodice Closures (Hook & Eye, Buttons)
Hooks and eyes were used as early as the 14th century. Buttons were also used in medieval Europe but became more standardized in the 18th century. By the 1800's Victorian era, both hooks and eyes and buttons were standard closures for bodices.
Detachable Collars, Bibs, and Dickies
These decorative collars were popularized in the early 19th century as a way to keep garments clean without frequent washing. They became particularly popular during the Victorian era and remained in use through the early 20th century.
Hand Sewing Skirt Hems
Hand-sewn hems have been used since ancient times, with various stitches like the slip stitch, blind stitch, and whipstitch becoming standardized in the 19th century. By the 1830s, skirt hems often featured straight or bias hem facings for added durability and style. The practice of adding hem facings to protect skirt edges was prevalent in the 1840s & 1850s.
Waist Tapes/Internal Belts
Waist tapes have been used since the 18th century to support the shape of skirts and dresses. They became more refined in the 19th century, often seen in structured garments like corsets and petticoats.
1900's
Applique
A decorative technique with roots in ancient civilizations, widely used in the 19th and 20th centuries.
Arrowhead Tacks
Used since the 19th century for reinforcing stress points in garments.
Bound Buttonholes
Became popular in the early 20th century as a durable and decorative option for high-end clothing.
Button Plackets at Openings
The use of button plackets dates back to the 13th century in Europe, becoming more common in the 19th century as tailored clothing became more widespread. By the mid-19th century, button plackets were a common feature in both men's and women's garments.
Empire Coat
Empire Coats by Butterick were known for their sophisticated design and made from luxurious materials like silk taffeta and lined wool. These coats featured high waists and were part of the broader fashion trend of the time, which included asymmetrical designs, bat-wing sleeves, and full, tiered skirts.
The Garibaldi Coat
Butterick's most popular sewing pattern in the 1910's, "The Garibaldi Coat," became a national trend. The coat style, inspired by an Italian military leader Giuseppe Garibaldi. Characterized by its fitted silhouette and military detailing, making it men's choice for both practical and formal occasions.
Hand worked Buttonholes
These have been used since the early 19th century, especially in tailored garments.
Peter Pan Collars
First introduced in the early 20th century, named after the collar style worn by actress Maude Adams in her role as Peter Pan in 1905.
Piping
Used since the 18th century to add decorative edges to garments and upholstery.
Sailor Collars
Popularized in the late 19th century, inspired by naval uniforms.
Shawl Collars
Introduced in the early 19th century as a part of men's formal wear and later adopted into women's fashion.
1920's
Dropped Waist
This style featured a straight, loose silhouette with the waistline falling below the natural waist, often down to the hips. It was a radical departure from the corseted styles of the previous eras, providing women with greater freedom of movement and a more androgynous look.
Rouleaux Loops and Frog Fasteners
Rouleaux loops and frog fasteners originated from traditional Chinese garments and became fashionable in Western clothing in the 19th century. Commonly used in the early 20th century for decorative closures on dresses and blouses.
1930's
Bias Cut Dress
The bias cut dress became fashionable primarily during the 1930s. This technique, pioneered by the French couturier Madeleine Vionnet, involved cutting fabric diagonally across the grain, allowing it to drape more naturally and fluidly. This method was revolutionary for creating garments that accentuated the natural curves of the body. The bias cut was particularly favored for evening gowns and cocktail dresses, which created a sleek, elegant silhouette that was synonymous with Hollywood stars.
Covered Buttons & Belts
Covered buttons date back to the 18th century, while covered belts became fashionable in the 20th century. Widely used in the 1920s and 1930s dresses for a coordinated and polished look.
Lapped Zippers
Zippers were invented in the late 19th century but became widely used in clothing by the 1930s. Lapped zippers were introduced to provide a neat and concealed finish in 1930's gowns, dresses, blouses and skirts.
Pintucks and Smocking
Pintucks and smocking have been used since the medieval period for decorative and functional purposes. Popularized in the 1930's, widely used in children's clothing, dresses, and lingerie to hiding worn areas or dress up an older garment.
1940's
French Seams
French seams have been used since the 19th century to create a clean, finished edge on lightweight fabrics. Particularly popular in the early 20th century during the late 1940's for fine garments and lingerie.
Lingerie Straps/Guards
Introduced in the early 20th century to keep straps in place and provide additional support for the newly styled undergarments.
Shoulder Pads & Shoulder Frills
Shoulder pads were used in military uniforms in the 19th century and adapted into fashion in the 1930s. Gained widespread popularity in the 1940s with Hollywood Stars like Joan Crawford and again in the 1980s.
Tailors Tacks
Tailors Tacks used for marking fabric since the 19th century.
1960's
A-Line Dress
A true A-line dress flares out from the bust to the hem, forming an “A” shape
Line Shift Dress
A Line Shift Dress falls straight to the hem, or flares out slightly, without defining the waist, typically sleeveless and with a closed or boat neckline. It was very popular early to mid 1960's.