The Bold 80s when “Bigger is Better” and “More is More” Ruled Fashion

Style, celebrity, and status converged in the 1980s. The fusion of cultural and economic forces resulted in the growing interest of over-the-top dressing. Some of the famous faces who inspired fashion-loving crowds were Princess Diana, Brooke Shields, Diana Ross, Christie Brinkley, Joan Collins, Ali McGaw, and Diahann Carroll.

The new era injected a boost of adrenaline into the frilly, feminine designs popularized in the previous decade by Laura Ashley. The New Romantics puffed up their style with big hair, shoulder pads, reams of ruffles, jewel tones, and loads of bold accessories. Success was measured by logoed status symbols. And the stars and their coveted clothing — ranging from ball gowns and chunky jewelry to power suits and silky blouses — were broadcast on TV to hundreds of millions of households.

Legendary runway models brought glamour to sewing circles in the 1980s, Somalian-born Iman gave assured polish to Vogue Designer Original sewing patterns by Jean Muir and further graced Vogue Paris Original designs by Yves Saint Laurent and Emanuel Ungaro.

In 1981, Lady Diana Spencer ascended as one of the most famous and well-dressed women in the world. She became a regular client of Bellville Sassoon, the fashion house founded by Belinda Bellville in 1953. Even after she had been turned away on her first visit to the Bellville Sassoon shop in London, she picked the label’s royal blue ensemble, to wear during her official engagement announcement. The Princess of Wales called upon the designers Bellville Sassoon to dress her over the years for her many appearances worldwide.

Vogue Patterns had been producing sewing patterns with Bellville Sassoon since the late 1960s. Some of Bellville Sassoon’s designs for DIY doyennes included a flirty cocktail dress with a flouncy skirt, wrapped bodice, and sharp shoulder pads, as well as a bias-cut evening dress that enhanced the figure with pleats, rosettes adorning the shoulders, and a big bow in the back. David Sassoon imbued the pieces with what he considered the pinnacle of feminine dressing: pretty, romantic, demure, flattering to the figure, colorful, and showing attention to details like lace, sequins, embroidery, plissés, and other enhancing accents.

For American women who were more interested in Hollywood rather than Highgrove House could have found inspiration in Brooke Shields. She also starred in her own signature collection for McCall’s, known as Brooke (1983). The 80’s also saw both Oscar^® winners Ali McGraw (1984) and living legend Diana Ross (1983) collaborate with Simplicity to create their own lines of sewing patterns reflective of their personal style.

Another super model early in their career found amongst McCall’s and Vogue Patterns is Christie Brinkley (1978), she would go on to partner with Simplicity on her namesake collection (1983). The patterns showed fans how to make their own wardrobe that went from sporty to dressy to corporate, such as loose-fitting tees, bandeaus, shorts, cocktail dresses, and long jackets.

The poshest of all dressmaking patterns could be found in McCall’s “Nolan Miller’s Dynasty Collection” based on “Dynasty,” the evening soap opera centered on the feud between the oil-rich Carrington and Colby families. During the show’s 8-year run, its cast — including Joan Collins, Linda Evans, and Diahann Carroll — embodied the allure and opulence of the outlandish 1980s. The clothes were so fabulous that costume designer Nolan Miller won an Emmy^® Award for his work on the series.

One sewing pattern allowed women to transform into Krystle Carrington (Linda Evans) with a belted knit dress that draped easily from the strong shoulders to the keyhole opening. Fans of Alexis Carrington Colby (Joan Collins) could command a room in an elegant skirt suit softened with a ruffled blouse. Sashaying like Dominique Deveraux (Diahann Carroll) came effortlessly with patterns for a loose-fitting shawl-collared coat, sleeveless pullover blouse with an exaggerated side tie, straight skirt, and flowing pants. Ever the fashionista, Diahann Carroll also had her own licenses with McCall’s and Butterick Patterns before, during, and after the show ended. Today Badgley Mischka carries on the tradition with their eternally glamourous designs for the Vogue Pattern American Designer series.