Collars are a great feature to sew on a top, dress or jacket. We've chosen some favorites from the new Simplicity Spring pattern collection to to inspire your next project.
These are a fun mix of interesting shapes and techniques you might not have tried before! Perfect if you're looking for a skill boost or an eye-catching feature.
4 Styles to Try
· Classic Two-Piece Collar
· Tuxedo Point Collar
· Fichu Collar
· Scallop Collar
Classic Two-Piece Collar
Let's start with the most common style of collar, that you may have been building up to trying. This classic two-piece design features a pointed collar piece sandwiched into a stand also known as a band collar. The band features rounded ends which makes the transition from the neckline to the collar more attractive. Practice this technique with S3234.
You start by preparing the collar. One layer is interfaced for support. Placing the two pieces right sides together, you sew around the three outer sides. Once sewn this is then trimmed and turned through then pressed flat.
The two band pieces are used to sandwich the assembled collar. One layer is interfaced for support just like the collar and the lower edge of the inner band is turned under. The upper edge is sewn including the curved ends. Trimming is important here to get a smooth finish when you turn out.
The assembled unit is then attached to the neckline of the shirt along the outer band. The tricky part is lining up the edge of the collar band with the edge of the front placket. Once attached you hide the seam allowance inside the band and stitch down the band on the inside neckline. Handsewing is the best option for a neat finish but if you're confident you've lined up the band correctly you can stitch in the ditch from the right side of the shirt through all the layers.
Tuxedo Point Collar
Tuxedo shirts for women are a fun fashion trend, playing with oversized shapes. The collar is shaped slightly differently to standard pointed collars to achieve the flapped finish.
Now you've seen the two-piece collar assembly, you'll see some similarities for the tuxedo style on S3232. The band and collar are merged into a single shape. One layer is interfaced for support and the lower edge of the inner band is turned under. Placing the two collar pieces right sides together, you sew around the three outer sides. Once sewn this is then trimmed and importantly, the collar is clipped to the dots. After this you can turn through and press flat.
The assembled unit is then attached to the neckline of the shirt along the outer collar. The tricky part is lining up the edge of the collar band with the edge of the front placket. Once attached you hide the seam allowance inside the band and stitch down the band on the inside neckline. Handsewing is the best option for a neat finish but if you're confident you've lined up the band correctly you can stitch in the ditch from the right side of the shirt through all the layers.
The fun final part is pressing the tuxedo points. Press along the crease line but don't flatten them entirely.
Fichu Collar
The dramatic fichu-style collar on S3231 is stiffened with netting, with a wide wrap-around shawl silhouette. Its origins are from the 18th century; a separate piece of fabric worn by women to cover the chest and neck.
The collar is stiffened in two ways - one layer is interfaced and the other is backed with a layer of netting, secured by sewing around the outer edge. Then the two layers can be placed right sides together and sewn around the lower edge. Clip and notch the curves and turn through to the right side, pressing flat.
The assembled collar is attached to the neckline before the bodice lining is layered on top and the dress finished. The dress has an interesting construction where there is a back central zipper that doesn't extend up through the collar.
Scallop Collar
A really fun technique to try is scallop edging - perfect on collars, hems, plackets and more. S3240 features scallops on the flat collar and trouser hems. A scalloped collar requires precise stitching done with slow control but isn't too complicated to bring together. The collar pattern piece is supplied in individual sizes so you can clearly see the scallop stitching lines that you need to transfer onto your fabric
One layer is interfaced for support. Placing the two collar pieces right sides together, you sew around scallops, pivoting at each inner point. The secret is to do one horizontal stitch at the inner most point to make it easier to turn through. Once sewn you need to clip into each point between the scallops, taking care not to snip into the stitching line.
Turn through then gently use the tip of your iron to press out the scallop curves and after that press flat. Then you can sew in place around the neckline of the top and secure with a facing on top.
Sewing Techniques
When sewing collars, a few key techniques can ensure a polished finish:
1. Stitch length: A normal stitch length is fine for sewing most parts of these projects but if you want more control we recommend dropping your stitch length to 1.5 which is helpful when pivoting corners, and navigating curves. Of course these will be narrower denser stitches that are much harder to unpick.
2. Seam Allowances: With multiple layers or fabric and interfacing, collars naturally get quite bulky. Clipping is important but grading seam allowances is also important. Trimming one layer of seam allowance to half the width will be a big help.
3. Pressing: Careful pressing is essential for a professional finish. You want to make sure the seam line rolls slightly to the underneath of the collar. Steam pressing can help set seams but be cautious not to distort the fabric.