8 Tips for Sewing with Sweatshirt Fabric

JULY 2025

Three people wearing casual clothing against a colorful background.

Have you thought about sewing your own sweatshirt, hoodie or jacket? Sewing allows you to express your creativity. You can add personal touches like embroidery, patches, or unique details to make your sweatshirt one-of-a-kind. You could even make your own Christmas sweater!

Sewing with sweatshirt fabrics can be a bit challenging, as they are typically made of a combination of cotton and synthetic fibers and can have a stretchy texture.

Here are 8 Tips to Help You Sew with Sweatshirt Fabrics:

1. Pre-wash your fabric: Sweatshirt fabrics can shrink or change shape during the wash, so make sure to pre-wash your fabric before cutting and sewing.

2. Be mindful of the stretch direction: Sweatshirt fabrics have at least one direction of stretch, the important one is the direction in which the fabric stretches the most. Be sure to lay out your pattern pieces so that the best stretch goes around the body not down.

3. Use a stretch stitch: A stretch stitch is a type of sewing machine stitch that allows the fabric to stretch without breaking the thread. Use a stretch stitch, such as a zigzag or a triple straight stitch, to sew sweatshirt fabrics. Test your stitch on a piece of scrap fabric, making a quick seam to see a) how it stretches and b) whether you can see the threads in from the right side.

4. Use a ballpoint needle: Sweatshirt fabrics are knit fabrics and can be easily damaged by a regular needle. Make sure to use a ballpoint needle, which is specifically designed for knit fabrics. In a pinch you could use a universal needle!

5. Use a walking foot: A walking foot is a type of presser foot that helps to feed the fabric through the machine evenly, preventing stretching and bunching. A walking foot can be a little expensive but works on a huge range of fabrics giving you extra support and confidence when sewing.

6. Use an overlocker aka a serger: If you have a serger, it can be a great tool for sewing sweatshirt fabrics. The machine can quickly finish the edges of the fabric and create a stretchy, durable seam. If you don’t have one, you can use your regular sewing machine with either a simple zigzag close to the edge of the fabric or an edge-finishing foot which recreates the stitches of a serger, wrapping the raw edge.

7. Consider a knit or stretch fabric stabilizer: A knit or stretch fabric stabilizer is a type of fabric that is placed behind the sweatshirt fabric to help keep it stable while sewing. Perfect for stretchy hems.

8. Cuffs and bands: Sweatshirt fabrics can be challenging to hem. Consider using cuff or hem band pieces to finish the edges instead.

Sewing with sweatshirt fabric can be incredibly rewarding once you understand its quirks and how to work with them. Whether you're making cozy loungewear, casual staples, or sporty layers, these tips will help you get the best results. Ready to put your skills to the test? Explore our collection of sewing patterns designed for knit and sweatshirt fabrics—you’ll find plenty of stylish options to keep you inspired.

Frequently Asked Questions: Sewing with Sweatshirt Fabric

Q: What's the difference between sweatshirt fabric and regular knit fabric?
Sweatshirt fabric has a smooth knit face and a soft, brushed or looped backing. It's typically thicker and warmer than regular jersey knits, making it perfect for cozy garments but requiring different sewing techniques.

Q: I'm new to sewing with knits - is sweatshirt fabric beginner-friendly?
Sweatshirt fabric is moderate for beginners. It's more forgiving than thin jersey knits because it's stable and doesn't curl as much, but it does require understanding stretch and proper equipment.

Q: How do I tell which direction has the most stretch?
Pull the fabric gently in both directions. The direction with more "give" is your stretch direction, which should go around the body (horizontally) when you lay out your pattern pieces. Most sweatshirt fabrics stretch more from selvage to selvage.

Q: What's the difference between a ballpoint needle and a universal needle for sweatshirt fabric?
Ballpoint needles have a rounded tip that slides between knit fibers instead of piercing them, preventing runs and holes. Universal needles can work in a pinch but may cause small holes or skipped stitches over time.

Q: Can I combine sweatshirt fabric with other fabrics?
Yes! It pairs well with ribbing for cuffs and bands, woven cotton for pockets or trim, and even faux leather for sporty details. Just consider the different care requirements and stretch properties when using other fabrics.

Shop These Patterns for Inspiration