Fleece is a soft, warm, and stretchy fabric, making it ideal for a variety of projects such as tops, jackets, pajamas or hats, and scarves. It also works well on children’s toys and accessories. Here are some essential tips and advice for working with fleece to ensure your projects turn out beautifully.
Preparing Your Materials
1. Choosing the Right Fleece: Fleece comes in different weights and textures, such as microfleece, polar fleece, and plush fleece. Select the appropriate type for your project, keeping in mind the intended use and desired warmth.
2. Pre-Washing: While fleece doesn’t shrink much, it’s a good idea to pre-wash it to remove any manufacturing residues. Use a gentle cycle with cold water and a mild detergent, then air dry or tumble dry on low.
3. Cutting the Fabric: Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter to cut fleece, as it can dull blades quickly. Fleece has a bit of stretch, so cut with care to avoid distorting the fabric. Lay the fabric flat and smooth out any wrinkles before cutting.
4. Pattern Placement: Pay attention to the nap (direction of the fibers) when laying out your pattern pieces – we indicate on the back of our envelopes if our yardage recommendations consider nap. And where included, we show nap pattern layouts in the instructions so you can ensure all the pieces face the same direction to avoid color and texture mismatches.
Sewing Success
1. Machine Needle and Thread: Use a ballpoint or stretch needle (size 90/14) to prevent snagging the fabric. Polyester thread is preferable as it has some give, which complements the stretchiness of fleece.
2. Stitch Length: Use a longer stitch length, around 3-4 mm. Shorter stitches don’t suit the thicker fabric and can create puckering, plus they are very hard to unpick if needed. Test on a scrap piece first to ensure the settings are correct.
3. Seam Finishing: Fleece does not fray, so finishing seams is optional. However, for a cleaner look, you can use a serger or a zigzag stitch to neaten the edges. We also love a lapped seam for fleece.
4. Handling Bulk: Fleece can be bulky, especially at seams. Trim seam allowances to reduce bulk and consider grading the seams (trimming each layer of the seam allowance to different widths). Use clips instead of pins to avoid leaving marks and to handle thick layers more easily.
Special Tips
1. Walking Foot: A walking foot attachment can be very helpful for sewing fleece as it helps feed the fabric evenly, preventing stretching and shifting.
2. Interfacing: For areas that need extra stability (like buttonholes or pockets), you might prefer to stabilize rather than interface. Tear-away or water-soluble stabilizers work well with fleece. If your project requires non-stretch areas (like zippers), reinforce the edges with interfacing to prevent stretching. Fusible interfacing is ideal for this purpose.
3. Pressing: Be careful when pressing fleece. Use a low heat setting and a pressing cloth to avoid melting the synthetic fibers. Press gently without applying too much pressure.
4. Topstitching: Topstitching can add a professional finish to your project. Use a slightly longer stitch length and sew slowly to keep stitches even.
Fleece is warm, soft, and easy to love—and with the right techniques, it's just as easy to sew. From cozy pullovers to cold-weather accessories, mastering fleece opens up a world of possibilities. Looking for your next project? Check out our selection of sewing patterns perfect for fleece and start stitching something snug today.
Frequently Asked Questions: Sewing with Fleece Fabric
Q: I'm a complete beginner - is fleece a good fabric to start with?
Absolutely! Fleece is very forgiving for beginners because it doesn't fray, is easy to cut, and mistakes are often easy to fix. Start with a simple project like a scarf or pillowcase to get comfortable with the fabric's behavior.
Q: What's the difference between polar fleece, microfleece, and plush fleece?
Polar fleece is the classic medium-weight option, perfect for jackets and blankets. Microfleece is thinner and lighter, ideal for layering pieces and baby items. Plush fleece has a longer, softer pile and works beautifully for cozy pajamas and stuffed animals.
Q: How do I know which direction the nap is going?
Run your hand across the fabric surface. When you stroke with the nap, it feels smooth. Against the nap feels slightly rougher. The fabric may also appear slightly lighter or darker depending on the direction.
Q: Should I use regular thread or special thread for fleece?
Polyester thread is best because it has some stretch that complements fleece. Cotton thread can break under stress since it doesn't stretch with the fabric.
Q: Do I need to finish my seam edges?
No, fleece doesn't fray, so finishing is optional. However, serging or zigzag stitching can create a neater appearance and prevent the edges from curling. For activewear or items that get heavy use, finishing adds durability.
Q: Can I mix fleece with other fabrics in one project?
Yes. Fleece pairs well with cotton knits, denim, and other stable fabrics. When combining fabrics, just be mindful of different care requirements and stretch properties.