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How-To Sew

Jacket Lapels, Collars, & Front Darts

Duration29:49

A jacket lapel and collar are structural elements that shape the neckline and front opening, typically constructed with interfacing and precise pressing to create crisp edges and proper roll. Front darts are sewn into the jacket body to contour the fabric to the wearer's shape providing a tailored, fitted silhouette.

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Tips to Remember

  • Staystitch the neckline and lapel edges before assembling to prevent stretching and distortion during handling and sewing.
  • Use a tailor’s ham and plenty of steam to press the collar and lapel into shape, setting the roll line crisply without flattening the seam allowances.
  • Mark darts precisely and sew with a gradual taper to the point, then press them to maintain a smooth, flattering fit.
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VERY EASY
The easiest and quickest patterns to sew. Great for beginner or the experienced sewer with limited time available. Expect limited construction details, hand sewing and fitting. Easy-to-sew fabrics are recommended.

EASY
Easy-to-sew patterns but with more details than the Very Easy category. Perfect for those with limited sewing knowledge or little time. Expect a wide variety of sewing procedures—there will be more details when the techniques are simple and fewer details when the techniques are more involved. Some fitting knowledge required.

AVERAGE
These patterns are perfect if you have more time to sew, and more experience sewing. Look for challenging designer techniques, tailoring, unique construction details. Expect more fitting and inner construction. Find more variety in fabrics from the stretchiest knits to synthetic leathers and suedes.

ADVANCED
The finest patterns featuring the best of European and American Couture. Perfect for those who like the sewing challenge of professional tailoring and fine couture techniques. Expect intricate fashion shaping, hidden construction details, couture inner construction, fine touches of hand sewing and bias draping.